Today was the day I toured southward, returning into England while exploring the border. In fairness, the border wasn't the primary objective for me- I'd just wanted to go to Hadrian's Wall. I got to do that, but also had a great tour in every other regard, learning a lot more about Scotland in the process.
As we left Edinburgh, Andy, our driver and guide, began with a lengthy discussion of the poet Robert Burns, as well as other significant authors. Burns appears to be the most influential though. There's even an annual celebration called Burns Supper which falls on January 25. He had been an advocate for Scottish culture, language, and traditions, so he's honored with meals of haggis and recitations of his works.
The first stop of the day was at Jedburgh. There stand the remains of a 12th century abbey, surrounded by a small sleepy town. The risk of falling masonry resulted in the interior being closed to visitors, but the exterior can give an idea of its elegance. A house where Mary, Queen of Scots lived for a few weeks stands nearby. The surrounding snack town is, in all likelihood, always quiet, but at 10:00 on a Saturday morning it was incredibly calm. Since cafés were opening up, I stopped by one for a doppio after a gentleman sitting by the door endorsed it. The coffee was very good. I wasn't to look into the way tasting notes are written, since "roasty, but not too roasty" does not do justice.
When we piled back into the sixteen seat bus and continued towards the wall, Andy switched gears from literature to Roman history as it relates to the area. Hadrian's Wall wasn't actually the farthest point the Romans reached, simply a narrow neck that was easy to build the wall. While it was initially over eighty miles long, many years and stone-scavenging locals left only about ten miles of wall. Actually, it's a special year to visit - the 1900th anniversary of the beginning of construction in AD 122.
The most frequently cited explanation that it was a defensive fortification is a bit simplistic. Roman military might was best used in pitched battles, so cowering behind walls wasn't to their advantage. Rather, it provided a way to reduce the risk of ambushes by barbarians. Furthermore, it helped control trade. When people are limited to certain entrances, it is much easier to levy taxes on them.
We visited the wall at Steel Rigg, where it is still fairly solid, and the cliff acts as a natural observation platform.
Next was the main stop of the day- Vindolanda. This Roman fortification predates Hadrian's Wall. In fact, the emperor started there during his tour of Britannia. It is still an active archeological site. Since the Roman legions were recalled multiple times during their stay here, they destroyed the fort as they left and rebuilt it every time. Apparently that was easier than dealing with the Picts and other tribes who might have settled in the structures. But the upside is that their destruction buried artifacts in anaerobic environments, helping preserve them for modern archeologists. Some amazing discoveries, such as the oldest written records on this island, were found there.
Volunteer guides give tours as well. Michael, who led the group I joined, really helped bring it to life. His passionate way of explaining day-to-day life and work in the fort was accompanied by comparisons to his time in the Royal Navy. Apparently the needs of troops haven't changed too much in the past two millennia.
The museum accompanying the dig site presented some of the finds. Some of the most valuable artifacts are on display in the British Museum in London.
On the way back, past the border with Scotland, we stopped at Moffat. It started as a sheep trading village. In order to honor their roots, they actually held sheep races and competitions which were then ended by animal welfare organizations. Now, these rules are honored by an "anatomically challenged" sheep statue. To my shame, I spent about ten minutes unsuccessfully trying to find the deformity. I was even studying the hooves. And then I was told about the ears. Or, technically, the lack thereof. I completely overlooked that they were missing. In my defense, the sculptor did as well.
This put a wrap on my last full day in Scotland. I really loved my time here, and will need to return in the future.
No comments:
Post a Comment