British Isles - Day 15

I had one day in Belfast, so I decided to make the most of it. Although this city is not always recognized for its connection to the Titanic, it actually played a huge role in the story - the Titanic was built there. So, the Titanic Belfast was the first stop of the day. It is a very interactive museum outlining the development of industry in Belfast. From linen to rope, to tobacco, whiskey, and eventually the big one: shipbuilding. Harland & Wolff, the firm behind the Titanic’s design, had been operating from the ever-growing harbor. As it became deeper and wider, the ships that they produced grew as well. They’d made hundreds of ships by the time White Star Lines contracted them to build the Olympia, Titanic, and Britannia. The displays then demonstrate life on the Titanic, the sinking, the aftermath, and visits to the wreck.

When I said that the museum was interactive, I meant it. There are touch screens all over the place (luckily there’s a fair number of sanitizer stations too). A ride can, optionally, carry you through a mock ship wharf where they demonstrate how the different steps of shipbuilding were done. 

Additionally, the museum ticket includes access to the SS Nomadic, a ship with a complicated history. It was to be used to ferry first and second class passengers from port to the Titanic. And it did so exactly once. Afterwards, it ended up used in WWI and WWII, including the Dunkirk evacuations. Later, it even was a restaurant boat. Now its 1911-style interior was remade, showing what it was like at its prime passenger carrying state. Fun little detail in the bathroom: it actually has a "Crapper", even if the photo didn't show it all that well.

I wandered around the Titanic Quarter a bit, passing Titanic Studios, where some Game of Thrones scenes were filmed, and approached the HMS Caroline, which isn’t currently accepting visitors. The harbor has a nice pathway running along the water and a fresh sea breeze sped me along. 

Upon reaching the main part of the city, I saw “The Big Fish” or as it’s more formally known, “The Salmon of Knowledge”. It’s an interesting art installation, but I didn’t find an explanation, so I can’t elaborate about the deeper meanings. From the fish, it’s only a couple blocks to the Albert Memorial Clock, which was named in honor of Prince Albert (shocking, right?).

Belfast, in the luxury shopping district downtown, is really fancy. Names such as “Rolex” and “Stradivarius” line the street. Otherwise, though, it mostly is pretty simple in its architecture, the exception being its cathedrals.

Unfortunately, the city still bears some scars from the violent past that shook it with the IRA’s blasts. Some areas have memorials marking spots of terror bombings, murders, and other awful acts. Spiked fences separate areas. Even the Peace Wall looks a bit intimidating.

I feel like most of the description so far has been a bit negative. Well, to turn the narrative, let me introduce the fantastic lunch I had. After a restaurant that was completely booked out, another one where every client was in a suit and tie, and a third which was only serving drinks since the kitchen was being repaired, I came across a small café. They too had a few issues, namely that half the menu was already sold out for the day, but in their defense, they were approaching closing. So although I didn’t get the avocado-pea toast that I came there for, I bought “Turkish eggs”, which were poached eggs with labneh and sourdough toast. And I finished up lunch with a “99” ice cream, which was the same as in England and just as smile-inducing. 

In the early evening, I came to the rail station to begin my journey to Dublin. I found a small café/bar there, and wanted to buy a Guinness, but they only served Heineken and Coors. Odd. No worries though. Within ten minutes of arriving in Dublin I had a can of Guinness to sate my thirst.