British Isles - Day 16

When you’re in Dublin for only one day, it’s crucial to make the most of it. But that is described a bit later. First, I want to give kudos to the hostel I stayed at. It was the fourth on this trip (not counting the two Airbnb rooms). Of them all, it was the cleanest, with the best upkeep, and best breakfast selection. Not big, but it had a few types of fresh fruit, bread served with butter and jam, peanut butter, and a few types of cereal. I tried two of the cereals that looked like varieties of raisin bran - large flakes, but one had fruits and the other mixed berries. The weird part was the peanut butter. For some reason it tasted odd, even though it wasn’t rancid. Just some flavor additive perhaps?

Channeling the American spirit, I was already in the streets by 8:00. As with Great Britain, it appears that they don’t recognize that as a time to be awake, so the city was a bit quiet. By that I mean that absolutely nothing was open. But it does make for a great time to start wandering and looking about. There was much to see along the street, including the Church of SS. Augustine and John the Baptist on John’s Lane. Even though it’s a ‘young’ church by European standards, with construction started in 1862, the spire is the highest point of the city. By honoring Saint Augustine, it upholds the tradition of the Augustinian monks who have been in Dublin since the 13th century.

Then came Jameson on Bow Street. Jameson whiskey was my introduction to the wonderful warming liquid. As one of the first brands I tried, it holds a special place in my heart and palette. Upon learning about their distillery in Dublin I was incredibly excited to visit. In fact, I actually booked a tour of their distillery before I'd even found a hostel to stay at. 

Two days prior, I toured Johnnie Walker, which is known for its blended whiskeys. The company owns many distilleries and creates a product by mixing the single malts. Jameson is technically a blended whiskey as well, but rather than using products from many distilleries, they mix differently prepared ones from their own stills. The main tour they offer at this location, the site of the original distillery founded in the 18th century, teaches you about the history of the company, the whiskey making process, and wraps up with a tasting of three of their offerings and teaches proper technique for tasting.

To my surprise, since I used to consider that mostly pretentious acting, it does make a difference. I was even able to feel the difference in alcohol from a pot still, which has more spice and a fuller feeling, vs the column still with its lighter floral notes. Even the bourbon barrel aged (nutty vanilla notes) vs sherry casks (dried fruit) were noticeable. Blended whiskey, although frequently associated with being cheaper, is not actually lower class. In fact, some of the best whiskeys are blended in order to best balance the different notes.

The tour also includes a voucher for a neat Jameson or a whiskey-lemonade at their bar. I went with the neat version, but only after I did the optional extra - visiting the barrel facility. Although it isn’t their primary aging warehouse, they teach more about aging and storing. This portion includes a taste drawn freshly from a cask. For my group, it was the 19,880th cask filled in 2003. What’s especially awesome is that a nineteen year old vintage is not something they directly sell. So I got to try a truly unique beverage.

Christchurch, the main church in Dublin belongs, denominationally, to the Church of Ireland. Since it existed prior to Henry VIII’s foundation of the Anglican Church, it was seized from the Catholics. Although this current building is, for the most part, only a couple hundred years old, due to a pair of roof cave-ins, the site it is built on initially housed a church built in 1030 by the Vikings. The crypts are practically untouched from the 12th century, and have served as the backdrop for some popular shows, like the Tudors. It has some interesting artifacts, like St. Laurence’s heart, and a mummified cat and rat. The heart is supposedly from the patron saint of Dublin, but the animals are a bit more surprising. When the organ was being moved, they were found in one of the pipes. The prevailing theory is that they got stuck during a chase and somehow were preserved.

Next came the walking tour, which I really struggled to find because the instructions on trip advisor gave the wrong meeting location. It was a good tour, with an informative guide, but what really stood out was that after it ended, he was really willing to explain more to me. After seeing all the separatist mentality in Scotland, I’d asked what he saw happening in Northern Ireland if the Scots chose independence in ‘23. He went into great depth, thinking out loud about the different possible outcomes as he saw them, iterating variables that could occur between now and then, and describing how he thought it would change the situation. Really fascinating.

At 17:30, I went my way, most tourist attractions were already closed. I did luck out though- the Irish Whiskey Museum still had a spot for their 18:00 tour and tasting. Unlike the previous two whiskey tours, which were brand specific, this one discussed the history of whiskey in Ireland on the whole. At some point I need to visit a smaller distillery though, since all three of these tours had a lot of showmanship. Really engaging performances supported by some impressive projectors timed to fit their motions, but I wonder what it would be like to see a more grounded one.

Since this was about the history of whiskey, I ended up learning more about my poison of choice. Apparently, the term “whiskey” is an English bastardization of the Gaelic “Uisce beatha”, or “water of life”. Lots of cultures have their life-waters, but it was quite literal in Ireland. When they brewed hooch, they needed to hide it from tax collectors. This had two main results:

1. Forgotten barrels invented aging. Young spirits are clear, and when left in the barrel they become amber and get those flavors.
2. The separation of methanol and ethanol could cause some people to go into a comatose state from methanol poisoning. Then, they would be given one more drink. If enough ethanol enters the system after methanol poisoning, it can act as a cure. Thus, the whiskey was bringing people back to life, earning its name.

It's also funny how serious the rivalry between Scottish and Irish whiskey is. All alcohols have legal requirements, be they champagne, bourbon, etc. Scottish whiskey, by law, must be aged for three years. Just to one up them, Irish whiskey is, by law, required to be aged three years and one day.

To round out the drinking for the day, I met up with a friend at the Temple Bar, the most touristy of all tourist bars in Dublin. Packed, noisy, and noticeably more expensive than others, but to play along I got an Irish coffee there. We then followed up with fish and chips, mushy peas, and Guinness's at a more reasonable pub, rounding out a day that probably left me more flammable than usual. 

This was the final day of the trip, and I set off home-bound the following morning. I feel blessed to have been able to visit these fantastic countries and to meet (and drink with) so many amazing people from around the world.

British Isles - Day 15

I had one day in Belfast, so I decided to make the most of it. Although this city is not always recognized for its connection to the Titanic, it actually played a huge role in the story - the Titanic was built there. So, the Titanic Belfast was the first stop of the day. It is a very interactive museum outlining the development of industry in Belfast. From linen to rope, to tobacco, whiskey, and eventually the big one: shipbuilding. Harland & Wolff, the firm behind the Titanic’s design, had been operating from the ever-growing harbor. As it became deeper and wider, the ships that they produced grew as well. They’d made hundreds of ships by the time White Star Lines contracted them to build the Olympia, Titanic, and Britannia. The displays then demonstrate life on the Titanic, the sinking, the aftermath, and visits to the wreck.

When I said that the museum was interactive, I meant it. There are touch screens all over the place (luckily there’s a fair number of sanitizer stations too). A ride can, optionally, carry you through a mock ship wharf where they demonstrate how the different steps of shipbuilding were done. 

Additionally, the museum ticket includes access to the SS Nomadic, a ship with a complicated history. It was to be used to ferry first and second class passengers from port to the Titanic. And it did so exactly once. Afterwards, it ended up used in WWI and WWII, including the Dunkirk evacuations. Later, it even was a restaurant boat. Now its 1911-style interior was remade, showing what it was like at its prime passenger carrying state. Fun little detail in the bathroom: it actually has a "Crapper", even if the photo didn't show it all that well.

I wandered around the Titanic Quarter a bit, passing Titanic Studios, where some Game of Thrones scenes were filmed, and approached the HMS Caroline, which isn’t currently accepting visitors. The harbor has a nice pathway running along the water and a fresh sea breeze sped me along. 

Upon reaching the main part of the city, I saw “The Big Fish” or as it’s more formally known, “The Salmon of Knowledge”. It’s an interesting art installation, but I didn’t find an explanation, so I can’t elaborate about the deeper meanings. From the fish, it’s only a couple blocks to the Albert Memorial Clock, which was named in honor of Prince Albert (shocking, right?).

Belfast, in the luxury shopping district downtown, is really fancy. Names such as “Rolex” and “Stradivarius” line the street. Otherwise, though, it mostly is pretty simple in its architecture, the exception being its cathedrals.

Unfortunately, the city still bears some scars from the violent past that shook it with the IRA’s blasts. Some areas have memorials marking spots of terror bombings, murders, and other awful acts. Spiked fences separate areas. Even the Peace Wall looks a bit intimidating.

I feel like most of the description so far has been a bit negative. Well, to turn the narrative, let me introduce the fantastic lunch I had. After a restaurant that was completely booked out, another one where every client was in a suit and tie, and a third which was only serving drinks since the kitchen was being repaired, I came across a small café. They too had a few issues, namely that half the menu was already sold out for the day, but in their defense, they were approaching closing. So although I didn’t get the avocado-pea toast that I came there for, I bought “Turkish eggs”, which were poached eggs with labneh and sourdough toast. And I finished up lunch with a “99” ice cream, which was the same as in England and just as smile-inducing. 

In the early evening, I came to the rail station to begin my journey to Dublin. I found a small café/bar there, and wanted to buy a Guinness, but they only served Heineken and Coors. Odd. No worries though. Within ten minutes of arriving in Dublin I had a can of Guinness to sate my thirst.

British Isles - Day 14

Vacations are like a bubble insulated from time. Unfortunately, though, the rest of the world keeps moving. And fourteen days is a lot of time for life. I had to check out from my hostel by 10:00, and my plans for the day only started at 11:00. So coffee shops to the rescue. 

I woke up, packed my bag, and headed to a comfy looking café just up the street. I'm just going to  pause and praise my eye for coffee shops, which once again did not let me down. Armed with a silky smooth cold brew and a "granola pot" (yogurt, berry, and granola parfait) I took some time to catch up on emails and various tasks. The cold brew had no bitterness to it,  just a nearly chocolaty hint.  

Then came time for the day's big event- a tasting at Johnny Walker. Before starting, everyone was instructed to take a flavor profile quiz with questions asking ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, peppers, etc. According to it, I'm a fan of "Fresh" flavors, grassy, and natural. Just for fun, I actually took it again with slightly different answers and got "Fruity". Overall, there are six primary categories: fresh, smokey, creamy, tropical, fruity, and spicy. 

The tour started with a history of the now massive company with a live show supported by a dynamic screen. It explained how Johnnie Walker started a grocery store and turned to blending whiskey to improve the flavor. As that proved popular, it became the primary business, passed down to his sons and so on. As blenders, their goal is to produce a consistent flavor profile, year after year, even as every year's single malt whiskey is slightly different. The Master Taster is in charge of this, with the latest taking up the mantle this past January. In fact, the master changes so rarely, that from Walker to the current master taster there had only been seven. In the same time, there have been eight British monarchs, including Victoria and Elizabeth II, who are the two longest reigning ones. Then the tour turned to the whiskey production and blending processes, outlining how choices at every stage in the process affect the final taste. 

The tour included three drinks- a Highball whiskey and soda using the blend recommended by our flavor quizzes, followed by two more of our choice. In my case, it was a Green Label with rose leaves as garnish. Now that I think about it, it was the first time I'd ever had a whiskey mixed with anything. Even the first time I had it in the rocks... My second choice was an old fashioned made with Green Label. It was better than the highball in my opinion, with the bitters mixing with the whiskey better than the soda water. Lastly, I decided to try their special seasonal blend, neat. At their Princes Street location, Johnnie Walker offers four unique seasonal flavors that aren't sold anywhere else. Frankly, I found the Summer blend lacking in flavor - it's light and breezy, as implied by the season, but I prefer more oomph, to feel the drink's body.

This was a learning experience for me. Not that I developed a proper tasting by palette, but I now have at least a slight understanding of what the notes on bottles mean and have a foundation on which I can build. 

I'd heard of the Stockbridge Market and spurred by the nice weather I made my way over there. In short: a small pop up market, mostly filled with prepared food stands. A green pea frittata and a red cabbage salad accompanied me out of the market. And I finally found something I'd heard of, but not seen- whiskey ice cream. So I stayed on the whiskey train. It had a mild flavor, and can be an option for those who want to try whiskey flavor without the accompanying punch.

 Next came the Museum of Edinburgh, a small free museum with stories and artifacts relating to the city. The collection actually started in the 1880's, as part of the City Museum. One of military history's greatest characters was well represented, since, as I learned, Field Marshal Haig was born in Edinburgh. With the little bit of time I had left in the city, I returned to the National Museum of Scotland, thus time exploring their sections about the evolution of design from the Victorian Era to the present day. 

The Airlink 100 bus runs from the Scott Monument to the airport for just £4.5, leaving every ten or fifteen minutes for most of the day. Warned that it can be a fifty minute ride, I hopped on, scoring a seat in the first row in the second story. Aptly, it was drizzling as I boarded (and turned into a downpour about five minutes later).

Edinburgh Airport had a bit of a weird vibe in my opinion. It’s neither impressively hectic, like O’Hare, Newark, or any other major airport, nor is it small and homey, like Luxemburg or Antigua. Most airports, in my experience, are somewhere near one of those two groups. This one is just the odd middle child.

With all the chaos surrounding flights in Europe right now I should not have been surprised about delays. But since the airport was rather quiet, I didn’t think it would be much of an issue. Well, delays happened. Oh well. I just sat there, enjoying Robert Burns’ poetry. He has some good works, including one suitable for today. 

Scotch Drink, Translated, Excerpt:

Let other poets raise a fracas

About vines, and wines, and drunken Bacchus,

And ill natured names and stories torment us,

And vex our ear:

I sing the juice Scotch barley can make us,

In glass or jug.

British Isles - Day 13

 Today was the day I toured southward, returning into England while exploring the border. In fairness,  the border wasn't the primary objective for me- I'd just wanted to go to Hadrian's Wall. I got to do that,  but also had a great tour in every other regard, learning a lot more about Scotland in the process. 

As we left Edinburgh, Andy, our driver and guide, began with a lengthy discussion of the poet Robert Burns, as well as other significant authors. Burns appears to be the most influential though. There's even an annual celebration called Burns Supper which falls on January 25. He had been an advocate for Scottish culture, language, and traditions, so he's honored with meals of haggis and recitations of his works. 

The first stop of the day was at Jedburgh. There stand the remains of a 12th century abbey, surrounded by a small sleepy town. The risk of falling masonry resulted in the interior being closed to visitors, but the exterior can give an idea of its elegance. A house where Mary, Queen of Scots lived for a few weeks stands nearby. The surrounding snack town is, in all likelihood, always quiet, but at 10:00 on a Saturday morning it was incredibly calm. Since cafés were opening up, I stopped by one for a doppio after a gentleman sitting by the door endorsed it. The coffee was very good. I wasn't to look into the way tasting notes are written, since "roasty, but not too roasty" does not do justice. 

When we piled back into the sixteen seat bus and continued towards the wall, Andy switched gears from literature to Roman history as it relates to the area. Hadrian's Wall wasn't actually the farthest point the Romans reached, simply a narrow neck that was easy to build the wall. While it was initially over eighty miles long,  many years and stone-scavenging locals left only about ten miles of wall. Actually, it's a special year to visit - the 1900th anniversary of the beginning of construction in AD 122. 

The most frequently cited explanation that it was a defensive fortification is a bit simplistic. Roman military might was best used in pitched battles, so cowering behind walls wasn't to their advantage. Rather, it provided a way to reduce the risk of ambushes by barbarians. Furthermore, it helped control trade. When people are limited to certain entrances, it is much easier to levy taxes on them. 

We visited the wall at Steel Rigg, where it is still fairly solid, and the cliff acts as a natural observation platform. 

Next was the main stop of the day- Vindolanda. This Roman fortification predates Hadrian's Wall. In fact, the emperor started there during his tour of Britannia. It is still an active archeological site. Since the Roman legions were recalled multiple times during their stay here, they destroyed the fort as they left and rebuilt it every time. Apparently that was easier than dealing with the Picts and other tribes who might have settled in the structures. But the upside is that their destruction buried artifacts in anaerobic environments, helping preserve them for modern archeologists. Some amazing discoveries, such as the oldest written records on this island, were found there. 

Volunteer guides give tours as well.  Michael, who led the group I joined, really helped bring it to life. His passionate way of explaining day-to-day life and work in the fort was accompanied by comparisons to his time in the Royal Navy. Apparently the needs of troops haven't changed too much in the past two millennia. 

The museum accompanying the dig site presented some of the finds. Some of the most valuable artifacts are on display in the British Museum in London.

On the way back, past the border with Scotland,  we stopped at Moffat. It started as a sheep trading village.  In order to honor their roots, they actually held sheep races and competitions which were then ended by animal welfare organizations. Now, these rules are honored by an "anatomically challenged" sheep statue. To my shame, I spent about ten minutes unsuccessfully trying to find the deformity.  I was even studying the hooves. And then I was told about the ears. Or, technically, the lack thereof. I completely overlooked that they were missing.  In my defense, the sculptor did as well. 

This put a wrap on my last full day in Scotland. I really loved my time here,  and will need to return in the future. 

British Isles - Day 12

Today was the first of two full-day tours I booked out of Edinburgh. It took me north, via Glencoe, to Fort William, Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. The Highlands are the home of the stereotype of Scots. There were many great views, green rolling hills, huge Lochs, and beautiful scenery. And a bunch of sheep, which outnumber people 3:1. 

During Days 11 and 12, I learned a little about Scotland and its people, some of which I want to share. Apparently, the stereotype of kilts, bagpipes, etc. is accurate and inaccurate at once. Walter Scott, the Scottish author, wrote about his people in a romanticized manner. When King Edward IV read these works, he was enchanted by the idea and decided to visit. In order to give the king what he wanted, Edinburgh was staged to demonstrate this fictionalized version. Since then, it has been used as a tourist draw. 

The reasons the Highlands make such a focal point of culture are twofold,  and highly emphasized during the tours: fierce independence and love of the land. England and Scotland's relationship has historically been difficult to say the least. The thirteenth and fourteenth century Wars of Independence were brutal. As with a lot of medieval conflicts, it's the outcome of heirs and political machinations. Alexander III of Scotland died without an heir,  and the next in line was three year old Margaret in Norway.  Scottish lords turned to King Edward I of England for help. He aided with setting up a temporary rule. Then, when Margaret was right and was deemed ready to make the voyage to her fiefdom, she set forth. But didn't make it, dying of illness on the way.  Edward I was again shortish for help and he agreed to help pick a king. All the Scots would need to do would be to fight for the English crown and to pay taxes. That got annoying quickly, so they rebelled and were invaded.  Queue William Wallace and a lot of blood. 

Glossing over a lot of complex history,  eventually the rule of both nations was in the hands of a single monarch (1603). Scotland still had its own Parliament though, until 1707 when financial issues forced it to unify with Britain. There is still much resentment. Actually, in 1997, Scotland once again formed a separate Parliament, but it is subservient to the main, British, one. Being part of the larger kingdom has not beaten down the individualist pride, and Gaelic is still the official language of Scotland,  even though only about one percent of the population is fluent in it. 

Nature, which is absolutely stunning here,  is rightfully a source of pride. And they are working to continue to preserve it. To reduce carbon emissions, 95% of energy comes from renewable sources. Ultimately, the goal is to reach net zero carbon emissions while becoming an energy exporter by 2050. Furthering this goal is the 19% tree cover, most for any nation in the UK, which is targeted to rise to 21% by 2030. 

Not only do the Scottish folk value nature,  they also enjoy it. Hiking is extremely popular here and there is a ski resort on the only mountain. Furthermore,  Right to Wander laws make it legal to walk the countryside without trespassing laws. Since today was a day of studying Scottish culture and customs, I needed to include some traditional food. So I got some haggis as a last minute addition to lunch, ordered as a side, and consequently called "a bit lonely" by my father.  I suppose I can understand:

But it was delicious.  A bit less spiced than the last time I had it, but richer. The texture of haggis is fairly unique, soft crumbs that hold together. Unfortunately, although "crumbs" is not the best word, I can't think of another that would describe the soft individual bits that make it up.  The other traditional food was a shortcake biscuit, which I had for dessert. Here, the term biscuit is  used when Americans would say cookie, and does not refer to the southern buttermilk bun. Shortbread is not particularly sweet,  but it is incredibly buttery. It brings the richness of milk fat but isn't greasy or too oily, just rich and crumbly.  And in this case crumbly is the right term,  because biting into the biscuit releases an avalanche of golden bits. 

And one last note for today- I got a photo of the Loch Ness Monster. 

British Isles - Day 11

Travel can be exhausting, especially if overnight coach bus rides are involved. I gave myself a later start today (and earlier bedtime the night before to get a spot of rest. Judging by how well I slept, I needed it.

After rising closer to 8:30, I took my time getting ready to face the day and decided to visit the hostel’s breakfast offering at the bar next door. Fairly small continental breakfast, not much to talk about, but one huge flaw- perhaps the worst coffee I’ve ever had. Yes, I like good coffee. But no, I’m not a snob. It’s not the price point, or the name, or style that matters to me. I just want it to taste good. This one just tasted burnt. And the fireplace is not a tasting note I like in coffee.

After that disappointment, things could only go uphill. Literally, I suppose, given that the Royal Mile, the central street of old Edinburgh, is a sloping road leading up to the castle. I got to the tour’s meeting point earlier than expected, providing an opportunity to poke around in the ancient stone alleyways. The first scheduled tour was an Underground Walking Tour about the darker side of Edinburgh's history and an entrance into the vaults. As with many medieval cities, they did a lot that wasn’t necessarily worthy of pride, and this tour outlined some of the torture, executions, and suffering that went on. What made it unique was the access into the vaults, hidden stone rooms underground which were supposed to be pubs, markets, and stores, but turned out to be too dark, damp, and unpleasant. As a result, they quickly devolved into crime-ridden brothels, opiate dens, and shelters for the homeless. So there were plenty of darker tales to share.

I had some two hours until the city walking tour, so the National Museum of Scotland filled the time. It has a fun mix of exhibitions, from the ancient Scots, to the industry that developed in the 18th and 19th centuries, to technology. In the technology section, I looked for information on Watt and Stirling. While they had a decent amount about James Watt, his steam engines, his governor, etc. But I didn’t see anything at all about Robert Stirling. Sure, he isn’t as famous as Watt, yet he does deserve recognition for developing the Stirling Engine. Some of the technologies presented included F1 cars and a Black Knight rocket, which were cool to see up close. My visit was too brief to get a full grasp of the museum though.

Some of the best walking tours I’ve been on are the free ones where you, as the tourist, decide how much to pay the guide. This one with City Explorers was no exception. My guide, Rory, is an Edinburgh native and had a PhD in Scottish history, making him the best possible source of information. On top of that, he had a great stage presence, keeping the audience engaged. I wish I could relate even half of what I learned during the two hour tour, but that would be the equivalent of several chapters in a book, so I’ll only tell one story, the tale of Greyfriars Bobby, as it explains one of the most well-known monuments in Edinburgh. 

John Gray was a town watchman and his job was to walk a path around the city. One of the requirements for watchmen was to have a dog. So he chose Bobby, a small terrier. When Gray died of tuberculosis, Bobby, who knew the route well, kept walking it once a day, and sleeping by his owner’s grave. Beloved by many townsfolk, Bobby was officially adopted by the city so that he wouldn’t be a stray. Eventually, when he died, people wanted to bury him next to his beloved owner. Only dog burials weren’t permitted on consecrated ground. As such, he lies in rest in the same cemetery, just further off in unconsecrated ground. Upon learning of him, an American philanthropist commissioned the famous monument, which was later followed up by the memorial above his grave. 

By the time the tour ended, I was in the mood for a drink and a walk, specifically in that order. Good beer can be expensive, and this sour was the most expensive one I’ve ever bought. But totally worth it, since it was also the best beer I’ve ever had. Made by Holy Goat Brewing, it is light and refreshing. Reinvigorated, I continued over to the new part of Edinburgh, visiting the National Monument and Nelson Memorial. Getting to them is only a short walk from the old city, making it a very worthwhile stroll for the views.

In order to get a bit of work done, I set up shop at a (nominally) Swedish restaurant/pub. There, I ordered their vegetable snack plate, which had almost no vegetables in reality. More of a general snack plate since two of the major components, the bread and cheese, aren’t vegetables. But nevertheless tasty. A pot of lemon-ginger tea wrapped up the meal.

Another slow meandering stroll through Edinburgh’s new town and the residential area provided some very picturesque views, including the castle and a flowery celebration of the queen's platinum jubilee.